The Flavor Revolution of ‘Anarchy in a
Jar’
My passion for Anarchy in a Jar started innocently, with a small jar
of blueberry jam that was given as a gift. While I love blueberries, I am not usually
a fan of blueberry things. Now though, I can happily admit that Anarchy in a
Jar has altered my view. The jam was a perfect combination of berries spiced
with anise seed and juniper, but there was also a surprising addition of rum. This
jam found its way on top of something every day until it was gone. It was so
delicious that I wanted to try all that Anarchy in a Jar had to offer (I’ve
tried many and they all were equally distinctive and ambrosial).
The utterly scrumptious 3's Company Triple Berry Jam. |
Anarchy in a Jar was created
by Laena McCarthy a few years ago. She started with a small production of jams,
marmalades and chutneys, but the demand for Anarchy in a Jar grew rapidly and has
expanded beyond the borders of Laena’s Brooklyn environ. I sat down with Laena
at Smorgasburg to find out more about the
genesis of her delectable concoctions and what new and imaginative flavors
she’s been cooking up:
The savor master Laena McCarthy of Anarchy in a Jar. |
When did you start your company?
I started Anarchy in a Jar
in 2009.
Did your formation of Anarchy in a Jar happen at
the same time that your beau, Ben Flanner, was starting the urban rooftop
organic garden The Brooklyn Grange?
Ben and his former partner
had created the Eagle Street Rooftop Farm. Ben
was creating and building The Brooklyn Grange
when we met.
How do you source your ingredients?
I source my ingredients
wherever I can find good, delicious elements. I use responsible farms. I’m
inspired by talking to people. I usually start with a seasonal fruit, like 600
pounds of organic blueberries. I found the most delicious berries grown by a
handsome farmer from Maine (it didn’t hurt that he was handsome). Sometimes GrowNYC is a great source of ingredients. I can suggest
it and they can find it. They are a wonderful resource.
A Lime and Pandan Marmalade & the spicy Hot Fireman's Pear Jam w/Chipolte & Cinnamon. |
I adore your logo design and jar! Who came up
with the design?
I did. I just played around
with types of fonts, shapes etc. I knew the type of jar and label I wanted, so
I created it.
Are there canners in your family?
I first learned canning from
my Mother. I used to help her can and prepare preserves when I was young. It’s
been fun helping her as an adult too.
I find your flavor combinations absolutely
dreamy. Do you find yourself dreaming about jam and chutney recipes?
Oh yes!
This disappears all too rapidly at my place: Grapefruit and Smoked Salt Marmalade. |
A mutual friend gave me a jar of your spinach
pesto. It was the best pesto I’ve ever had, and I make a very good pesto. Would
you mind telling me the secret of your pesto?
It had very little spinach
in it. It was a ramp pesto. I first had ramps in Italy. I’ve always loved the
flavor of ramps so I thought I’d create my own pesto using them.
Your jam and jelly flavors are so inventive. How
have you been inspired by your travels?
I have done a lot of
traveling and I’ve lived in various parts of the world. I lived for a year in
Antarctica. I do love meeting people and cooking with them. A great way to get
to know a place is to experience the food. I also have friends who are
bartenders and they are very helpful with flavor ideas. One of my favorites is
the Clover Club Bar in Carroll Gardens.
I’m such a savory girl, but I’m so in love with
your jellies and jams. I have a feeling you are a savory girl too. What
attracted you to produce such sweet delicious things?
I eat more savories, but I
do love both sweet and savory. I think I eat more savory things. I love the
perfect combination of sweet, salty and savory.
I can't wait to cook w/this one: Sugar Plum Fairy Jam with Shiso and Ice Wine. |
You can find stockists, workshop info and Laena
McCarthy’s book aptly titled Jam On: The
Craft of Canning Fruit on the ever evolving Anarchy in a Jar website.