Subject Eye

The Flavor Revolution of ‘Anarchy in a Jar’

My passion for Anarchy in a Jar started innocently, with a small jar of blueberry jam that was given as a gift. While I love blueberries, I am not usually a fan of blueberry things. Now though, I can happily admit that Anarchy in a Jar has altered my view. The jam was a perfect combination of berries spiced with anise seed and juniper, but there was also a surprising addition of rum. This jam found its way on top of something every day until it was gone. It was so delicious that I wanted to try all that Anarchy in a Jar had to offer (I’ve tried many and they all were equally distinctive and ambrosial).

The utterly scrumptious 3's Company Triple Berry Jam.

Anarchy in a Jar was created by Laena McCarthy a few years ago. She started with a small production of jams, marmalades and chutneys, but the demand for Anarchy in a Jar grew rapidly and has expanded beyond the borders of Laena’s Brooklyn environ. I sat down with Laena at Smorgasburg to find out more about the genesis of her delectable concoctions and what new and imaginative flavors she’s been cooking up:

The savor master Laena McCarthy of Anarchy in a Jar.  

When did you start your company?

I started Anarchy in a Jar in 2009.

Did your formation of Anarchy in a Jar happen at the same time that your beau, Ben Flanner, was starting the urban rooftop organic garden The Brooklyn Grange?

Ben and his former partner had created the Eagle Street Rooftop Farm. Ben was creating and building The Brooklyn Grange when we met.

How do you source your ingredients?

I source my ingredients wherever I can find good, delicious elements. I use responsible farms. I’m inspired by talking to people. I usually start with a seasonal fruit, like 600 pounds of organic blueberries. I found the most delicious berries grown by a handsome farmer from Maine (it didn’t hurt that he was handsome). Sometimes GrowNYC is a great source of ingredients. I can suggest it and they can find it. They are a wonderful resource.

A Lime and Pandan Marmalade & the spicy Hot Fireman's Pear Jam w/Chipolte & Cinnamon.

I adore your logo design and jar! Who came up with the design?

I did. I just played around with types of fonts, shapes etc. I knew the type of jar and label I wanted, so I created it.

Are there canners in your family?

I first learned canning from my Mother. I used to help her can and prepare preserves when I was young. It’s been fun helping her as an adult too.

I find your flavor combinations absolutely dreamy. Do you find yourself dreaming about jam and chutney recipes?

Oh yes!

This disappears all too rapidly at my place: Grapefruit and Smoked Salt Marmalade.

A mutual friend gave me a jar of your spinach pesto. It was the best pesto I’ve ever had, and I make a very good pesto. Would you mind telling me the secret of your pesto?

It had very little spinach in it. It was a ramp pesto. I first had ramps in Italy. I’ve always loved the flavor of ramps so I thought I’d create my own pesto using them.

Your jam and jelly flavors are so inventive. How have you been inspired by your travels?

I have done a lot of traveling and I’ve lived in various parts of the world. I lived for a year in Antarctica. I do love meeting people and cooking with them. A great way to get to know a place is to experience the food. I also have friends who are bartenders and they are very helpful with flavor ideas. One of my favorites is the Clover Club Bar in Carroll Gardens.

I’m such a savory girl, but I’m so in love with your jellies and jams. I have a feeling you are a savory girl too. What attracted you to produce such sweet delicious things?

I eat more savories, but I do love both sweet and savory. I think I eat more savory things. I love the perfect combination of sweet, salty and savory.

I can't wait to cook w/this one: Sugar Plum Fairy Jam with Shiso and Ice Wine.

You can find stockists, workshop info and Laena McCarthy’s book aptly titled Jam On: The Craft of Canning Fruit on the ever evolving Anarchy in a Jar website.