Katy Moran: Paintings

I first viewed the paintings of Katy Moran in London in 2006 at Stuart Shave’s then East End gallery Modern Art. I was instantly drawn into her painterly and extremely beautiful works. I could see that Ms. Moran particularly loved paintings and the sensation of painting. In her work, one can view a specific yet nonrepresentational survey of neoclassical and post-neoclassical painting.

Katy Moran  Big Wow 2007  Andrea Rosen Gallery

Ms. Moran employs varying degrees of figuration in her paintings. One might see the specific palette Eugene Delacroix used in his Odalisque, but with Moran there is no reclining woman. You may see the colors and movement of The Wave by Gustave Courbet, but you certainly will not see any water. Ms. Moran uses her signature brushstrokes to evoke elements of something finite, but leaves it to the viewer’s subjective eye to determine what that finite thing precisely is. Which is not to say she uses distortion, like Francis Bacon, for example; she deploys a similar methodical technique with a judicious use of color.

In the end her paintings feel somehow quite familiar while remaining rigorously unconfined. There are no bathers or gleaners or decorous damsels running toward a storm-swept abyss, but there is a powerful, deeply palpable presence that is universal for us all. 

Captain Beaky and His Band ll   2006  Modern Art

Lucas  2007  Andrea Rosen Gallery

 Facing Francesca   2006   Modern Art

Stinkfruit Surprise! 

Even though sometimes I can be difficult, my friends wish the best for me. They have lent me their couch, dried my tears and have traversed county lines to attend performances or exhibitions. They are good people and have the best intentions, which I shall admit here are sometimes just not good enough.

One well-intentioned friend (let’s call him John) who has listened to my tales of woe over the years noticed that I was working too hard and had also been single for a long time. He was did a great job of bolstering my ego by telling me true and positive things like, “You are quite good at sewing buttons on coats.” For some reason John decided to play matchmaker: He had a friend he thought I should meet.

And yes, I did tell John that this was a bad idea. I did say no to this fix-up plan. John did what many of my friends do. He simply ignored me and spoke with his friend who thought we would be more comfortable meeting at a party surrounded by other mutual friends.

I already didn’t like this “Mr. Plan a party around meeting me and all my glory” high maintenance man. He was already, in my opinion, trying to control me. But John was so keen for us to meet that he agreed to host the party and provide the food, which meant that I had to purchase the drinks, and the glasses to serve them in. Oh and invite my friends, a feat that makes D-Day seem like a walk in the park.

In the end, my mystery date stood me up at a party I didn’t want or need, his no-show witnessed by a room full of hungry friends. John decided it was time to prepare some food. In his small LES apartment he opened some durian, also known as “stinky fruit.”

I have nothing against stinky fruit. I know it’s revered in certain parts of the world. But I don’t like it. I’d never seen John eat or serve it previously and, needless to say, his choice of party food did not go over well in that cramped, steam-heated room. At that final straw, my audience bolted.

John and I are still good friends and I did appreciate his gesture of kindness. But even the best-laid plans should include a good caterer.

Some suggestions for dinnerware:  Broadway Panhandler, Sur La Table and Ikea. For food: Dean and Deluca (they ship!)  

Another Continent: African Style!

Everything’s been done before they say, but there’s still so much about Africa to be explored.

            – Nigerian designer Amaka Osakwe of Maki Oh

Helen Jennings, editor of Arise Magazine, has a new book, entitled New African Fashion, that is certain to spark some intrepid explorations. This survey of the myriad of styles and inspirations is as diverse and vibrant as the cultures of the continent itself. The book is filled with an exciting and beautiful array of African fashion designers, models and artists. It is long overdue.

It’s worth noting that the visionary designers Yves Saint Laurent and Azzedine Alaïa were both born in Africa. Lamine Kouyaté’s Xuly Bët and model Alex Wek’s Wek 1933 brands are also familiar. New African Fashion introduces designers who may not be household names today, but hopefully will be soon. With a forward by artist and writer Iké Udé of Arude Magazine, insightful text and stunning photography, this is a book to be owned by any lover of style.

Here are some of the dashing folks who were at last week’s launch party, held at Parlor, NYC.

Mazuba Kapambwe and a friend.

A very chic couple.

Tanzanian socialite, writer & beauty Kate Bomz!

The author Helen Jennings (center) and friends.

Blogger Rosemary Kokuhilwa of  Fashion Junkii.

A regal gentleman.

Erika Belle in front of some the fashion on display.

A stylish woman with Erika Freund of Mikuti Jewelry.

Actress and producer Sophy Aiida.

Viva ‘Vivre Sa Vie’!

Sometimes one needs a movie to function as a one-stop aesthetic Quick-Mart. Jean-Luc Godard’s 1962 black and white film entitled Vivre Sa Vie will give you everything you need: minimalist mod fashion, heaps of style, coquettish behavior, cigarettes, love, death, dancing, prostitution, philosophy, nudity, and Plato all in one neat cinematic package. And unlike some films in the Godard repertory, it even has a plot.

The stylish lead character, Nana Klein Frankenheim, is played by Anna Karina (Godard’s wife at the time). The premise is set up early: Nana is a girl who just wants to be special. And she wants to be loved. Oh, and some money would be good, too.

This movie is one of my go-to films when I need inspiration for what to wear, not because there is a large array of styles to choose from, but because there isn’t. It is a great blueprint for a reductive and elemental way of dressing. Nana is first seen with her back to the camera, in a trench coat with an upturned collar, her black hair in a bob. I’m sure Godard was attempting to state something else with this striking opening, but I always took it to mean the world is your oyster as long as you have a good coat. And if you have the music of Michel Legrand playing in the background (or at least in the soundtrack of your mind).

At her dull record store job, Nana dresses in a plain plaid pencil skirt, dark cardigan and a white button down shirt. But when she makes her perhaps not fortuitous career move, she spices things up with a frillier white blouse and a fuller check skirt above kitten heels. In later scenes, once she really breaks bad, she adds either a shiny wide black or metallic belt. No belt = good girl. Tight belt around the waist = not-so-good girl.

Life’s lessons come hard and fast for Nana. Though she soon learns that ‘escape is a pipe dream,’ Nana remains chic nonetheless. Even as she saunters around town, smoking cigarettes in a ‘pilly’ sweater, she teaches us to commit to the choices that we make in life and to invest in a good knitwear shaver.

The film opens with a motto from Montaigne: Lend yourself to others, but give yourself to yourself. This is great advice. I decided many years ago to borrow from the aesthetics in Vivre Sa Vie. With the best always in mind, I kindly offer tips from this fashion filled film to you.

For 1960s-esque sweaters: Tse Cashmere or Uniqlo 

For the pencil skirt: Moschino Cheap and Chic

For an assortment of ballet flats: ASOS.com

For Bobs or Page Boy wigs: The Wig Salon.com 

For the perfect handbag (Nana had different outfits, but carried 1 great chain handled bag): 

Stella McCartney Handbags

Check out this charming dance performed by Anna Karina as ‘Nana’ in Jean-Luc Godard’s film. Provided by Visionquest. 

Carpe Diem!

I was recently asked what I would do if I knew I had only 24 hours to live. No need for reflection for that question. Of course I have quite a few regrets, perhaps more than a few. But I’d waste no time pondering over those old chestnuts. Stock last-day activities like sex, bungee jumping or parachuting can be tricky to conjure up within time limitations and some involve corralling other people to participate. Why would I wish to be burdened with them?

I’d choose to get very close and personal with something I fervently avoid for health and waistline maintenance reasons but could find very easily: butter.

I absolutely love butter. I could eat it spread on or integrated into everything. Here are some of my first appointments for the glorious stuff: on a warm baguette flown in from the Parisian bakery Boulangerie Collet (I know-I only have a day left but I’d wait the 7 hours for that baguette; it’s really that great), drizzled over grilled quail surrounded by little sea scallops floating in rivers of the stuff. I would move on to have my favorite vegetable – kale – butter-soaked and then sautéed in garlic and butter. Then I’d have battered pork belly deep-fried in butter, followed by butter cream ice cream with butter cream sauce.

Even though I have a mere 24 hours I would then take a nap. So that I could wake up refreshed and ready to take on my main course. I won’t give you those LDL-raising details, but I would go to my final rest softly plumped and sated with my blood lipids newly reconfigured. I could be trusted to go gently into that good night*, giddy from the food and one last silly pun: to beurre is human**.

*My apologies to Dylan Thomas.

**My apologies to Alexander Pope.

Two of my many favorite butter brands: Kerrygold Pure Irish Butter
and Les Pres Sale Carmargue Beurre. I borrowed this platter from a friend
who has rustic things at home on purpose.
The bread is a stunt baguette that is 6 years old.

                                   

The Supreme Carine Roitfeld!  

We are shaped and fashioned by what we love.  – Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

An artist is someone who is able, by virtue of imagination, talent and skill, to create works of aesthetic value. Even though Carine Roitfeld is well known for her work as a stylist and as the editor of French Vogue, she truly is an artist. A remarkable creative agility is evident in her work because it reflects not only what she knows about fashion and art, but also what she loves.

One of my favorite Carine Roitfeld editorials took inspiration from the inimitable appeal of Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin. It featured the model Daria Werbowy wearing an array of beautiful looks, all in numerous shades of gray. Of course you are surprised, as I was, because gray is typically not a sexy color, but in Carine Roitfeld’s hands it became very charged indeed.

Her incredible style and work can be seen in her new large-format book, irreverent, published by Rizzoli. I was fortunate to speak with she as she inscribed my copy for me. She is lovely and very welcoming, everything chic rolled into one petite svelte woman.

We chatted for a moment or two and when I told her about some of my own work, she offered me a wonderful compliment: “So you are a part of fashion history too.” It was both generous and genuine, as only a person of confidence and self-possession could bestow. Carine is a woman who is true to herself and can only express her love of fashion through a culmination of her passions.

Carine is very passionate about AIDS research, and part of the proceeds from the sale of irreverent will go to the amfAR organization. Cheers to you, Carine for your innate style, inspiration and sartorial love.   

Having a moment with the beautiful Carine Roitfeld.

Carine and me! She loved my T-Shirt by Scooter LaForge. 

Maialino’s Magic, or Almost like Water Off a Duck’s Back:

I love walking into a restaurant feeling stylish and happy that I’m about to eat good food. I feel Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s chic and that all eyes are on me. This is certainly how I feel when I walk into Maialino, my favorite of Danny Meyer’s NYC restaurants. I know this is crazy talk and the old man sitting at the deuce that turned his head to look at me is really just thinking that he gave the same wool scarf I’m wearing to his son-in law as a gift last Christmas.

After I get over my ‘faux-lebrity’ moment, I like to sit down at the elegant bar and order a mocktail. The reason to go to Maialino is the incredibly delicious food and great service. It is also one of the few restaurants that have mocktails listed on the drink menu. I like to eat dinner at the bar so I can make sure I don’t miss any of the real celebrities as they walk in. The last time I was there, Al Pacino walked past me with his dinner companion. He was wearing a blue bandana (why would Al Pacino wear a blue bandana? Can’t he afford a scarf like that old man bought for his son-in law?)

Maialino is perfection, but I must share with you a strange thing that happened. A boisterous woman who was sitting next to me managed to spill her glass of white down my back. It did seem as if it was a physically impossible thing to do (I think she was gesticulating and forgot she had a full glass of wine in her hand). But that was not the strange thing. The strange thing was that after I stared at her anticipating her apology, she said “I didn’t know longer jackets were back in style.”

Let me give you a description of the ‘longer’ jacket I was wearing. It was a Yohji Yamamoto black silk jacket with hidden snaps and long sleeves (pictured below). It was not the newest jacket I own, but this is not the point. How does someone have the nerve to say something like this to me, not only because it was wrong and rude, it was said to me while my left hand was ¼ inch away from a sharp knife and I’m left-handed?

The staff seemed to be as stunned as I was. They were kind and offered all sorts of linen with club soda poured on top (does that really work?) while the wine juggler babbled on to her friends in her not-so-charming Texas regional accent. You can imagine the ideas that were running through my head, but I just sat at the bar smelling of wine, and I don’t even like wine.

Now, I wouldn’t mind if Grace Coddington wanted to give me a heads up and help me out so I don’t commit a public fashion faux pas, but to by criticized by a ‘Miss Texas Liberty Parade’ with blonde over-lacquered hair, wearing a dress far too short and tight for her age, was almost too much to bear.

I say almost because I didn’t let it put me off enjoying an excellent meal. I managed to keep my composure, look glamorous (if slightly damp) and stayed clear of Rikers Island. Maialino has a number of sumptuous fresh pasta dishes, but none, for me, can top the tonnarelli a cacio e pepe (a fresh, square spaghetti served with pecorino cheese and black pepper). If living well is the best revenge, eating well must be a very close second. I ordered the tonnarelli, the staff continued to soothe with their kind attention, and the evening regained its magic. Now I can only thank everyone at Maialino for ensuring my culinary and imaginary cinematic delight.

Here I am in my 'long' jacket at the Issey Miyake '10 Year Anniversary' event.

Photo by Brian Batista.

The Fabulous Fifties!

The art historian and my dear friend Alan Rosenberg is the curator of a wonderful show, featuring American color prints from the 1950s. The exhibition is entitled ‘Image and Abstraction’ and it can be viewed at Good Design, a Carnegie Hill Modern furniture and Decorative Arts gallery located at 1305 Madison Ave.

This exhibition of rarely seen mid-century prints is showing through December 24^th, 2011. For more information, please go to: Image and Abstraction.com. Congratulations, Alan! 

Alan Rosenberg at his opening. 

One of the prints on view.

More art above an exquisite 1950s bureau.

Some period hand carved painted figurines.

Montserrat: A Magnificent View

Montserrat was always interested in art, music and dressing up. She was raised in a conservative family in Barcelona and because of her early unique fashion sense, she always felt like the black sheep. She adored her life in Spain, but she also wanted to see what the world had to offer.

When Montserrat arrived in NYC in 1993, she spoke almost no English and stayed with friends in a small place on 14^th Street off 6^th Ave. One of her favorite clubs was Nell’s, which was just two blocks away. It was there that Montserrat got her first taste of dressing up for nightlife and knew she wanted to stay. Her first job interview was with the infamous Michael Alig for Club USA. She didn’t get that job (luckily), but she met someone at Save the Robots not long afterward who offered her a job at The Village Gate. She worked there for many years and enjoyed hearing bands like the Lounge Lizards.

To never compromise can be a hard line to follow, but Montserrat is true to herself and lives her life with great passion (after all, she was named after a mountain). She will not own a cell phone because she prefers to have her conversations face to face. Her unwavering sense of style and individual spirit made Montserrat ideal for focus in Subject Eye. 

A buena vision in red.

What were you thinking?

The weather was cloudy, so I wasn’t so cheery. If I think too much about this it can cause problems. I just wanted to figure out how to be with the clouds and enjoy this day.

List of the items you are wearing in your photo?

Dress: A vintage black and red print dress I purchased in Seattle.

Bracelets: Some are Alexis Bittar and the others are classic hardware bracelets.

Makeup: My lipstick is from Lipstick Queen. The color is called courage.

Rings: Also Alexis Bittar.

Shoes: Red Converse Sneakers.

Favorite music played while getting dressed? 

I’m not listening to new music lately, but I love Nick Cave and Tom Waits. I sometimes like aggressive music like punk. I also love jazz music especially on rainy days like Etta James and Ruth Brown.

Shopping tactics:

I don’t go shopping. I see something I like and I buy it. I love classic vintage from the 1940s and 50s because it is clothing with a history. I’m particularly fond of Yves Saint Laurent.

Avoidance tactics:

I will never wear Birkenstocks, Ugg boots, or go to The Gap.

Do you rock, shock or think about matching socks?

No socks, no shocks, but I do rock!

How do you keep or lose your figure?

With age one can lose one’s figure. I go to the gym and I’m a firm believer in the Weight Watchers regimen. I’ve always had my Spanish bottom.

Do you think you're sexy?

I don’t have to think hard about this. I think of myself as a more rounded person with sex included.

What do you collect?

I collect vintage shoes. I own more than 100 pair. I collect crinolines, especially from the 1940s and 50s. And dresses, of course. One of my favorite characters is Alf. I collect anything with Alf on it. My friends have been great in aiding my Alf obsession. He’s so cute and he is an alien, like me (laughs).

Most desired item-if anything?

I desire the perfect job! I want the perfect match of money, creativity and appreciation of who I am. A job where a misfit can be the perfect fit.

Are you designer label happy?

I like labels. My favorites are Alaia,Thierry Mugler and Jean Paul Gaultier. One of my very favorite designers is Isabel Toledo.

If you could be reincarnated as a piece of clothing, what would you be?

A Charles James garment. His couture is out of this world.

Is your skin in? (What is your skin care regimen, if any?)

I’ve been using products from Yves Rocher skincare. I’ve been using this line for many years.

A night to remember or forget regarding your clothing?

I went to the Madame Grès exhibition opening at F.I.T. I was wearing a dress with a train. It was a 1940s silk jersey dress, which was very much like Madame Grès creation. I wore my 1930s monkey fur jacket. The photographer Bill Cunningham was at the opening and he loved this outfit.

Any advice for future generations:

People should learn great manners. It is a forgotten art. Learn how to respect people and accept them for who they are. Have an open mind when seeing someone who is creative and appreciate that they have unique qualities.

Past, current or future projects?

Right now I want to find the perfect job. I want to work fewer hours and make more money. I think I would make a perfect companion, like in Victorian times. We need to bring this type of job back!

A stylish montage=Montserrat. 

Clyde’s House of Beauty

I love beauty products. I do, I do. I love sizing up each product by looking at the packaging and smelling their unnecessary scents. I love testing them with my fingertips and rubbing them into my forearm while pretending I feel and see the miraculous change in my skin. I usually just feel wetter. But who cares? I adore slathering them on my skin with big sweeping gestures.

I’m sure some of these products must be snake oil and fairy dust. But they can be very expensive snake oil and fairy dust, and sometimes they can even be real snake oil. Dianne Brill’s skin cream has actual snake venom as an ingredient, and it works marvelously well. I love it. I also love the great Dianne Brill herself, but that’s for another Subject Eye.

My favorite place to purchase all things beautifying is Clyde’s Chemist (926 Madison Avenue). I think I became a member of the Whitney Museum just so I would have an excuse to travel to the Upper East Side*, cross the street and visit this skin care Mecca. You don’t need a reason to go to Clyde’s. The reason will present itself as soon as you walk inside.

Clyde’s does function as an old fashion type of drug store as well. There is a pharmacy where you can purchase, I don’t know, cotton balls and the like. I didn’t notice the pharmacy until very recently. It took me 20 years to notice the pharmacy in the back. I’ve been too preoccupied with the international cornucopia of emollients and makeup in the front. If you had the luck to be introduced to the Decleor and Carita lines in Paris, you will become bosom buddies at Clyde’s in NYC.

The women that work at Clyde’s are seasoned professionals. Be nice to them and they will respond in kind. You can really talk to them about any of your skin care trials, tribulations and kerfuffles. They listen and offer expert solutions in a price range you can afford.

*Note: I have to give myself a reason to travel to UES. I wish this wasn’t true. I’m absolutely anonymous uptown and not in a good way. For me to get attention in a store like Gucci, I’d have to drag a small stage along and perform a Balinese plate dance. It’s true that I can actually do some of the moves from a Tari Piring (Balinese plate dance), but they ignore me anyway. Are they intimidated by my dramatic personal style? Or do they make assumptions because of my melanin-enhanced skin? Sadly, I know it’s the latter.

Subject Eye Presents: Rosemary Wettenhall

When you walk into Madame Matovu, Rosemary Wettenhall’s well-curated vintage clothing shop on West 10^th in the Village, you can instantly see why the shop is on the radar of so many celebrities and fashionable women. You feel like you’ve entered a magic treasure chest. The reason the shop is so special is that Rosemary chooses every item – and doesn’t sell anything she doesn’t personally adore. The vintage merchandise is well edited and very well cared for, and there is also a small collection of designer clothing produced under her own eponymous label.

Rosemary’s in-depth knowledge of distinct eras in fashion is evident, as is her familiarity with a wide range of clothing manufacturing techniques, and she is quite conversant with how the pieces can or should be worn. Along with the beautiful clothes there is a wonderful selection of accessories and artwork. She is a firm believer in mixing styles and eras to create your own special fashion alchemy, which makes her perfect for Subject Eye.

Rosemary Wettenhall's style and her welcoming smile.

What were you thinking?

I’m thinking Life!

List of the items you are wearing in your photo?

Dress: a Comme des Garcons black slip dress with a blue and pale pink colored ribbon 1950s lace vintage dress over it.

Scarf: rose print silk organza scarf from the 1950s.

Sweater: cerulean blue Marc Jacobs lace ruffle cardigan.

Belt: vintage 1970s black motorcycle belt.

Watch: an oversized Swiss Army watch.

Favorite music played while getting dressed?

In general, I like classical and jazz music. I love Billie Holiday and Louis Armstrong. These days I find myself listening to a lot of R&B, like John Legend and Beyonce. Of course I love Motown. But you can really lose yourself listening to Edith Piaf and Serge Gainsbourg.

Your inspirations: icons, fictional characters, shapes or eras?

I’m inspired by everyday people. There’s always someone on the street who looks amazing.

Shopping tactics:

Right now, I’m in love with drug stores and hardware stores. I love their organization. It’s like a science. I love to lose myself at Rite-Aid. Where does all that stuff come from? Being in these types of stores balances out what I do. My newest love is the Farmers’ Market. I love talking to the farmers about hybrid produce and the work they do to grow food.

Avoidance tactics:

I avoid anything aggressive, whether it is people or clothing. For me, it has no meaning or place in my life. I also avoid the attitude of entitlement. Again, I love the people of the streets. Ever notice how entitlement and aggression goes hand in hand? Then it breeds ignorance.

Do you rock, shock or think about matching socks?

I love being individual. I hate being placed in a category.

An array of beautiful scarves.

  

How do you keep or lose your figure?

I’m just disciplined with what I eat and what I do. I believe in discipline in life, period. But I make sure to have fun at the end of the day.

Do you think you're sexy?

Of course! I think that being sexy is what you feel at the moment and what you project. I believe in subtle femininity.

What do you collect?

I collect skirts. If you open my closet, you would see more skirts, and I adore pleated skirts most of all. The perfect pleated skirt can be very hard to find. Christian Dior made my favorite box-pleated skirt. I also collect vintage bracelets, particularly Victorian pink gold. Well, I love almost anything that is shiny. I also love portraits and photos of women from any era. And last but not least, anything with roses on it.

Fresh roses in a Rococo vase and a portrait Marilyn.

Most desired item-if anything?

People getting along. I want people to get along and communicate better. I want people to stop being greedy because it creates hate. Greed separates people. I want people to not be so obsessed with material things.

Are you designer label happy?

No, that’s not me, just fashion labels. I have to love it, and what I choose must be something that I will want to keep with me forever.

If you could be reincarnated as a piece of clothing, what would you be?

I would want to be reincarnated as a rose bush. I would want to be any type of rose bush because it is the perfect thing of beauty, with a mix of hard and soft.

Is your skin in? (What is your skin care regimen, if any?)

I use a basic shea butter with no additives that I get at Bigelow Chemists.

A night to remember or forget regarding your clothing?

On one of my favorite nights I wore an Alexander McQueen shift dress that he himself signed. On another night to remember, I wore a Christian Lacroix couture skirt from the collection inspired by Frida Kahlo. But any day can be great when you are wearing clothes you love. I love wearing Comme des Garcons and of course, Yohji Yamamoto. Miuccia Prada is my favorite of today. The way she uses fabrics is so wonderful. And she can cut a great skirt! I completely appreciate the cultural references used in the prints of Dries Van Noten. The clothing is so sophisticated.

Any advice for future generations:

Be true to yourself.

Past, current or future projects?

In the end I’m fascinated by beauty. I’ve always loved beautiful things and having them around me. I also sell art in Madame Matovu, so I would love to expand it into a lifestyle shop.

Behold, a treasure trove!

A Henry Clarke poster and some sparkle.

Rosemary's eye catching window display.

A painting of Madame Matovu presides over all.

 Photos by Erika Belle